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Thread: Grease vs oil

  1. #31
    Murder Machine, Harmless Fuzzball TCinVA's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Navin Johnson View Post
    Just for clarity my point about WD-40 was that camel semen will lubricate your gun. You just have to know it’s limitations.
    3/15/2016

  2. #32
    The R in F.A.R.T RevolverRob's Avatar
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    I have probably mentioned it about a dozen times here on P-F. I prefer non-toxic lubricants and cleaners. I use a silicone-based oil that is rated for incidental food contact. I got the idea many years ago from the aforementioned Grant Cunningham article. But rather than choose lubriplate grease, I just opted for an oil.

    LPS Silicone Oil operating range -30° to 390° - rated for incidental food contact. Spray it on, let it dry, wipe any excess away, load, holster, roll on.

    13oz can cost $20 from McMaster: https://www.mcmaster.com/13805K53

  3. #33
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    Quote Originally Posted by GJM View Post
    For years, I have been using oil on my pistols. However, Sig recommends grease, lubes their new striker and hammer pistols with grease, and has included some grease with new pistols.
    Not a new video, so they may have changed their recommendation (I'm aware of the Bruce Gray grease recommendation)

    SIG Academy



    Atlas Gun Works



  4. #34
    Abducted by Aliens Borderland's Avatar
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    I prefer oil on slides. I had a 1911 slide freeze up in below freezing conditions using Tetra gun grease. I'm sure it's fine in FL but beware the grease on slides.
    Last edited by Borderland; 05-11-2024 at 08:23 PM.
    In the P-F basket of deplorables.

  5. #35
    All greases are not created equal. All oils are not created equal.

    The details matter here...

    Should you run NLGI #2 grease on your guns that may be designed for aviation or automotive uses? Absolutely not.

    Would running an NLGI #0 grease that's designed for very cold environments be a much better choice. Absolutely, yes.


    The biggest problem with oil is it doesn't adhere well and migrates everywhere very rapidly. Grease tends to keep the oil in place and function better for WAY longer periods of time. Oil works great in a sealed system with a pump system to keep it flowing to all the surfaces that it needs to cover well.

    If you don't mind reapplying oil very often then it works fine. If you want to go 1,000's of rounds or lengthy storage in combat readiness between service intervals than Lubriplate SFL-0, Cherry Balmz Black Rifle Balm or Forward Controls Super Good Snake Oil are going to be far superior in performance to oil.

    The main problem with grease is hardly anything out there is spec'd out to work well in firearms (small niche). Most of what's on the shelf is poor choice -- (most often what people use and it can cause real problems). Most people would be better off with just about any oil than overly heavy grease.

  6. #36
    Deadeye Dick Clusterfrack's Avatar
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    On my CZs I use Lucas Extreme gun oil, and coat the slide stop pin with a thin layer of Lucas Marine grease. My current record is 32358 rounds on one slide stop on my practice Shadow2.
    “There is no growth in the comfort zone.”--Jocko Willink
    "You can never have too many knives." --Joe Ambercrombie

  7. #37
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    Quote Originally Posted by JSGlock34 View Post
    I use Wilson's Ultima Lube II grease on my .45 1911, and I think it is excellent for that pistol. Wilson Combat specifically does not recommend their grease for their 9mm pistols though, and so I've generally avoided grease for 9mm 1911/2011 pistols.
    Wilson only recommends their grease for rifles and carbines. Not for pistols.

    https://wilsoncombat.com/grease-ulti...oz-bottle.html
    Recommended Uses: Full and Semi-Auto rifles and carbines, Optimal in AR-style rifles at temperatures above 50° F.

  8. #38
    I don't buy "gun oil" or "gun cleaners".

    Have not bought any in 20+ years. Used to get samples when I would go to schools, but I think I have worked my way through all of those. In my experience none of them worked any better than motor oil. For cleaning I use ATF (automatic transmission fluid) which has detergent in it and does a rather decent job. Clean with ATF, lube with regular motor oil and call it good.



    I use 0W 20 in the winter for when the temps are below zero.




    One quart of regular motor oil will last one heck of a long time and I just transfer some into smaller containers and use it as needed from the smaller containers.

    Works for me.

  9. #39
    The thicker SLIP2000 EWL stays put really well, works really well in various conditions, and doesn't stink. One bottle has lasted me years and years, so the cost is negligable.

    I don't know how toxic or not toxic various motor oils are, but the SLIP2000 says not toxic so there's that, too.

  10. #40
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    Quote Originally Posted by Super77 View Post
    The thicker SLIP2000 EWL stays put really well, works really well in various conditions, and doesn't stink. One bottle has lasted me years and years, so the cost is negligable.
    I think SLIP 2000 EWL is thinner than the regular Gun Lube, though it may stay in place better than the regular Gun Lube. The SLIP 2000 EWL 30 is a thicker product.

    From the Slip 2000 FAQ page https://slip2000.com/pages/frequently-asked-questions


    Gun Lube is a 10 Weight Lubricant made for casual or low round-count shooters. Allows you to fire 1000 rounds, field strip, and wipe it clean.

    EWL is a 7 weight lubricant for tactical training and high round-count shooters. Allows you to fire 4000 rounds, field strip, and wipe it clean. EWL performs well in dusty environments and will not slow down in the extreme cold.

    EWL30 is a 30 weight lubricant with the same properties as the EWL, but as a 30 weight lubricant. EWL30 is great for suppressed shooting and high heat environments. EWL30 stays in place, making it great for firearms that are seldom used or n long term storage.

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