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Thread: Grease vs oil

  1. #1

    Grease vs oil

    For years, I have been using oil on my pistols. However, Sig recommends grease, lubes their new striker and hammer pistols with grease, and has included some grease with new pistols. Bruce Gray strongly recommends grease as does Rick Holm. For the last three or four years, my wife and I have been using Lucas grease on 320 based competition pistols with excellent results. Still been using oil on my Glock and custom 2011 pistols. I asked Ed Cameron, an excellent 1911/2011 gunsmith and his recommendation is oil, as his guns are tightly fitted. He isn't particular about brand but said thinner oil in the winter and thicker in hot temps.

    Thoughts?
    Likes pretty much everything in every caliber.

  2. #2

    Well, it depends…

    …I think on context. If we are talking about handguns, specifically modern semi-auto pistols, not much of any lubricant needed. Years back, I would put grease, usually TW-25B- between the interface of trigger bar and connector. This during a detail strip, which I do at least once yearly on my carry guns. The barrel got a drop or two of CLP or something similar, and a drop in each slide rail slot. The couple of 1911s I’ve had got oiled frequently, especially during a class. Usually a little bottle of CLP-shaken, not stirred- drops on the barrel hood, at the muzzle, on the slide rails and the disconnector notch. Work the slide a few times, and finish with a drop at the hammer to run down to the sear.
    In your sometimes environments, @GJM, desert to mountains in the winter, I would use less oil. Might just dampen the end of a q-tip and touch the metal to metal surfaces. I would not use grease in extreme cold, although I’ve read that TW25 is good in the cold.
    Not really referencing folks here, because almost all are enthusiasts and will have their own procedures and concoctions. In my experience, most “general population” shooters fall into two camps: almost no lube (and long term neglect) leading to dry stoppages, and way to much oil (usually)again neglected, resulting in buildup over years and causing malfunctions.
    So, tightly fitted metal pistols get a little more oil, and modern designs-Beretta APX, GLOCK, M&Ps etc get less generally speaking.
    Haven’t used grease in years. I will let others speak to revolvers, etc.
    OMMV.

  3. #3
    I think one needs to know the limitations of the lube they’re using

    WD-40 will lubricate your gun. It just probably won’t last long as an example.

    I found With grease I needed to clean more often due to more debris sticking to the grease and the carrier or suspension residue after the lubrication was gone would get gummy. On the other hand when oil was gone, it was dry With minimal crud.

    I had a tube of some super Duper gun grease 20 years ago or so, and stopped using it. After about 10 years just for fun I cut it open and the oil had separated from the carrier.

    I think either would work fine if it was used within its parameters

    Currently using a bottle of 0W 30…so far so good

  4. #4
    Glock Collective Assimile Suvorov's Avatar
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    Escapee from the SF Bay Area now living on the Front Range of Colorado.
    My basic philosophy is loose tolerances (most pistol slides, AKs, M14s) = grease, tight tolerance (AR BCG) = oil.

    But the reality is I just drip Break Free on everything accepting the fact it’s sub optimal cause I like how it smells.

  5. #5
    I started using FCD snake oil about a year ago, and it’s been fantastic. I would describe it as a light grease. After using it on my ARs, I tried it on my waterfowl shotguns, and then began using it on all my pistols. It stays put and the guns feel very slick even after heavy firing sessions, including shotguns in damp, cold conditions.

  6. #6
    Site Supporter 1911Nut's Avatar
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    I use Break Free or whatever other "brand name" lubricant I have on hand on all my guns, regardless of their caliber, action type, or style. I do 99% of my shooting in dry weather, usually in the southwest US. I keep them clean and take care of them. I cannot attribute any issue I have had with any firearm to the type of lubricant I used.

    If that happens, I will consider changing my approach.

  7. #7
    Site Supporter
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    A gun is an unsealed system, so it might make sense to use grease on the friction surfaces. The problem is making sure the right grease is used. Too thick and it causes problems with dust and grit, so if grease is to be used it should be a grease that is designed for use in firearms. This will typically be much thinner than automotive grease for example. A good grease will probably last longer between lubes than oil.

    Personally I prefer to use oil in my 1911s and just make sure they are always lubed properly and sufficiently. I think this works just fine in situations where the user has consistent opportunity and motivation to pay attention to the lube on his/her 1911. They run dirty, but not dry. The reason I am making this 1911-centric is because that's what I use and the 1911 has more friction surfaces than other types. I'm convinced a lot of problems with 1911 reliability is due to insufficient and/or improper lubrication.

  8. #8
    Site Supporter gringop's Avatar
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    I've used Slip2k EWO for about 15 years but for the last year I've switched to a mix of Mobil1 synth grease and oil, as shown on this School of the American Rifle vid.

    https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=DTpWfjVFfEU

    It's just the 2 mixed together until it's the consistency of thin honey.

    I like the fact that it doesn't migrate away in my ARs if they sit in the safe for a year and I tried it out in < 30 degree temps with no probs.

    The only place I don't use it is in revolvers, it seem like it was a little thicker than I liked when I used it on my J-frame cylinder, I went back to oil for that use.

    In 2008 I took Tactical Rifle Instructor from CSAT and I remember Paul Howe saying that he used a mixture of TW25B grease and oil on his ARs. I just checked and TW25B is $90 for an 8 oz tub. I'll stick with Mobil 1.

    Gringop
    Play that song about the Irish chiropodist. Irish chiropodist? "My Fate Is In Your Hands."

  9. #9
    Site Supporter farscott's Avatar
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    Not sure it matters. I am not aware of many failures due to lubrication nor am I aware of gun lifetime being impacted due to lubrication choices. Even in sandy SW FL, lube choices are not critical. I do have to clean more often than I did in AL due to the sand, but I see no real difference in sand collection with oils or greases. Finishes like NP3 are nice in that the gun can be run with no lube in sandy locales. For many firearms, corrosion resistance is more important than lubrication. Firearms do not require intense lubrication schemes.

    I use whatever lube I have at hand, from G96 Gun Treatment to Mobil 1 to Slide Glide Lite.

  10. #10
    Oh dang, there is about to be 5+ pages of everyone talking about there pet lube.



    Can’t help feel GJM is low key trolling. Hahaha


    I remember there was a podcast(forgot which one) that had a legit lube scientist that talked about this. Basically said for firearms pistols and shoulder fired rifles to use lube.

    He mentioned grease is basically oil with some ingredients to thicken it up. TCinVA had a excellent summarization and explanation as he always does!

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