Gen 3 G17 stovepipe, need recommendations

[JohnO]

Even if it were 100% bone stock 1 malfunction is in the ‘shit happens’ category and nothing to be alarmed about.

[GJM]

Great trouble shooting list! Thanks!

Any thoughts on optimal recoil spring weight for my set up?

OEM or 15, depending whether you prioritize reliability or sight tracking.

[Sig_Fiend]

In addition to what everyone else said, try swapping the stock barrel back in to see if you can isolate the problems to that one component. Some of what you've described sounds like a barrel fitment issue. Gen1-3 9mm Glocks already have weak extraction and ejection as it is. Even the littlest thing is often enough to start causing issues in those two areas.

[Rex G]

First ever stovepipe.

Gen 3 G17 with Wilson Combat drop in barrel.
Stock RSA, has had around 3000 rnds on it.
Stock ejector/extractor.

After a break in period with the WC barrel where I got a few failure to go into battery the gun has been reliable.

After a long period of not shooting it, I decided to turn it into a Carry Optics gun for USPSA.
Just had it milled for an optic and forward serrations. The gun was black Nitride refinished post milling. It also had a H507 Comp optic mounted on it.

Shot 150 rounds problem free last Saturday.

Today I shot 9 Magpul 17 round mags, and got 1 stovepipe. 1st ever stovepipe w this pistol.

At one point, maybe 3-4 mags in, I noticed that the pistol had a harder time going into battery when cycling the slide manually during chamber checking and clearing the pistol, than usual. It sort of surprised me. I remember thinking that it’s never felt that difficult for the action to close and lock. The barrel shroud was dry of any lubricant.
The pistol went into battery fine if I locked it back and hit the slide release, and if I slingshotted the slide properly.

After another couple of mags I got the stovepipe.
I then put a thin line of Lucas oil on the barrel shroud where it contacts the slide at the front of the ejection port with no further problems.

Any thoughts regarding this malfunction?

Does it take a bit of break in and more lube after getting the pistol refinished in Black Nitride? Especially considering the WC barrel?

Should I just keep it lubed and carry on and see if it happens again?

Should I consider changing to a 30274 ejector and Apex extractor?

Should I change the RSA even though it only has around 3000 rounds through it?

Could it be brass bounce off the optic; which I guess could be related to weak ejection.

I’d really appreciate your thoughts!

Attachment 118177

“Drop-in” barrels CAN require fitting. The “few” failures to go into battery reinforce this statement. Regardless, this adds a variable.

“USPSA Carry Optics” means that it is a match game/sport gun. If not used for defense or carry, well, just carry on. See if more problems occur. The optic, itself, adds weight, unless material is removed from the slide, to compensate. Regardless, adding weight to the slide adds a variable.

Any finish/re-finish, that adds material, makes tolerances tighter. I have no idea how many repetitions of the slide cycling that it would take for DLC to adequately wear-in. Regardless, this adds a variable.

I am not trash-talking Magpul, because I have no earthly idea whether they are better or worse than OEM, but, well, Magpul mags are not OEM mags. This adds a variable.

There is no harm in reaching into your box/bag/bin of fresh, new RSAs, and making the swap.

I have always run OEM ejectors and extractors, in Glocks. The only time I changed spring weight, from OEM, was to solve the infamous G22 problem, 22 years ago. (Glock, The Company, was still denying that the problem existed, but a local Glock armorer knew that stronger Wolff mag springs would be the work-around cure. He was right.)

I am not the best person to ask about this stuff, because none of my several G17 pistols, Gen3, Gen4, or Gen5, have ever malfunctioned. Dud rounds of ammo happen, occasionally, but no mechanical G17 weapon malfs. The only Glocks to give me any problems have been that G22, bought new in 2002, another G22, bought later, with a slide latch that did not like* 180-grain ammo, and a Gen3 G29, which I bought pre-owned, with an aftermarket recoil spring and guide rod. The instant cure for that G29 was to swap to a stock Glock RSA. My answer for everything Glock is usually a simple “use OEM.”

*180-grain ammo would rub against the slide latch, pushing it upward to prematurely lock the slide back.

[gruntjim]

Every gun fails eventually. 1 every 1k is about where I am OK. I wouldn't over think it a ton. How do you know it wasnt a cartridge that was just a little low on powder? etc etc. See the forest for the trees

Also, Glock PMags suck

That's the exact word I got from the latest Armorer's Course.

According to the instructor, he and two other trainers went out for a weekend of smoke and fire.

Not one PMAG made it through without malfing. The OEM mags had no such issue.

[HCM]

Good info so far.

Especially lubing the gun. In addition to the barrel, one drop on each frame rail and a drop on the spot where the connector and trigger bar meet is recommended.

To add:

In addition to exterior barrel fit, aftermarket barrels may have slightly tighter chambers.

If it continues:

Does it have the part number 336 ejector ? If so the part 30274 updated ejector may help.

When you detail strip the slide does the extractor drop out or do you have to pry it out?

IME an Glock extractor which has to be pried out is not moving freely and impedes function.

A light polish of the top and bottom surfaces of the extractor (as detailed elsewhere on PF) can restore it to proper function.

OEM Glock mags are preferred.

Glock PMAGs have 2 issues: weak mag springs and a reduced internal volume since the all polymer mag body has to be thicker while maintaining the same external dimensions. Less space = More friction which is a problem with weaker mag springs.

I reserve Glock PMAGs for range training only, though for some reason their extended mags (21 and 27 rounds) seem to work better than their 15&17 rounders.,

[Nick B]

Haven’t looked this week but several places last week had factory Glock mags for 20 bucks . No need for aftermarket mags .

[pangloss]

Haven’t looked this week but several places last week had factory Glock mags for 20 bucks . No need for aftermarket mags .

I strongly agree. Troubleshooting gear is a distraction from shooting. Given how long factory mags last and how inexpensive they are when on sale, I can't justify buying non-Glock mags anymore.

[JonInWA]

Potential causal factors:

-Non-OEM barrel

-Non-OEM magazines

-Non OEM finish.

-Non-OEM RDS milling

However, 1 malfunction may just be an anomaly.

Another question pertaining to a potential causal factor: What ammunition are you using?

Best, Jon

[NETim]

Seconding the 30274 ejector. Cheap and easy to replace. My G4 17's all have them and ejection is more consistent in them. At the very least, no more brass to the face issues.

I am a fan of the Apex extractor too. May or may not have an impact though.

My money's on the mags.