Originally Posted by Guerrero
I have one. It is three years old now. I love that I can program to high only. It has lived on the end of my shockwave for the past 18 months and has taken a lot of recoil abuse.
I have washed it about five times. Still ticking.
Took it off today for a pocket carry and photo
Last edited by eb07; 10-29-2022 at 06:32 PM.
I have the older Streamlight 1L that only uses a CR123. How do they manage to make this take either a CR123 or AA?
It's the body design. I don't have one but I'm speculating they use a long spring assembly to accommodate the different battery lengths. Additionally, the head circuitry needs to accept either 1.5V or 3.0V, which isn't as much of a challenge. Unknown is if the light can run on a 16340 Li-ion cell (4.2V) without causing damage.
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There is an outer spacer/sleeve inside the light near the head that moves with a CR123, but stays put when using a AA. The design allows both batteries to fit and contact the spring reliably.
The 1L-1AA will also accept a AAA. It puts out a useable amount of light for quite a while that way. I thought that it messed with the TEN TAP system or the switch in general, but playing with the one in front of me right now it will still change programs, etc with just the outputs decreased.
Last edited by Crashpad; 10-30-2022 at 08:40 AM.
I’ve ended up with 2x bodies that came from M500 shotgun forends that take the older P6 screw on style heads and a few of the bulbs that they use. The bulbs all work (tested in an old 6P I have) but when I put them into the take off bodies and throw on a tailcap…nothing? Anyone know if these bodies can easily be made into some basic lights I can toss into drawers around the house? The length of the bodies seems like it’s just about exactly a single CR123 length but I’m wondering if they’re maybe a hair longer so as to not make contact when I put the tailcap on? Any ideas?
Doing a bit more research they’re not from an M500 it’s probably from a 618 shotgun forend. Single cell so I’m guessing that’s why the 6v bulbs I have aren’t working (I’d need a 3v)?
That could very well be, but even at 3V a 6V bulb should be dimly lit (like me). Try taking the light into the dark and see if it's doing anything.
More likely is no connectivity at some point in the circuit. With the tailcap off, while pushing the battery down into the body try jumping the negative terminal to the body and see if you get anything. A short piece of wire would be ideal for this. Also, the spring on the head assembly needs to make good contact with the body, and the battery needs to make good contact on both ends. With a battery installed, the tailcap switch on but with the bezel removed, you can also try pushing the head assembly down into the body and see if you can get it to work.
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Just tried everything you suggested and nada…there is even a little plastic insert on the bezel end that I popped out and that didn’t do anything to help. I stretched the spring out and it’s definitely making contact on both ends. I rechecked all the components individually in a 6P body and everything works…just not in these bodies with a single CR123? Shame because this is a cool looking little setup.
So is you swap out just the 3P body for a 6P (using the same bezel and tailcap), it works?
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Yup.
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