My Parody is back. The ejector has been replaced with another MIM part. The safety has also been replaced and is very stiff. I'm assuming it will loosen up a bit with some use. The packing slip doesn't mention anything done to the feed ramp or chamber but it looks like the feed ramp may have had a slight roll added to the top where the ramp meets the chamber. Or maybe that was already there and I just never noticed it.
The Atlas medium flat faced trigger had a little too much reach, so I swapped it with a short trigger shoe. The geometry of the trigger bow and such required a considerable amount of fitting and bending so the bow would move freely in the frame. I had to file the top front of the bow to make it work. The whole job took me about two hours. I was planning on 30 minutes.
If you're not going to learn to use the front sight properly, don't bother with it. If pointing the gun, screaming "Ahhhhh!" and cranking on the trigger is all you can learn to do, work on doing that safely. -ToddG
18,000 rounds.
I haven't had any problems or failures of any kind the after the 13,100 round mark. (a grip screw fell out) I have complete faith that as long as I continue to do basic maintenance, the gun will continue to be reliable. The frame/slide fit and barrel fit is still tight and there's no abnormal wear at this round count.
That said, I have a MAC 9 DS on the way to serve as a backup gun. I think it's worth mentioning that I decided to try a different gun because it may fix my biggest complaints with the Prodigy: I like that the MAC comes with tool steel internals over MIM, that the slide is nitrided over Cerakote, and hopefully the optics mounting system is better. I'm thinking I will put a Prodigy grip module and Atlas trigger in the MAC 9 to make it feel similar to the Prodigy. You can follow that adventure over on the MAC9 thread when the gun gets in. That said, I still consider the Prodigy as my main gun for the time being.
If you're not going to learn to use the front sight properly, don't bother with it. If pointing the gun, screaming "Ahhhhh!" and cranking on the trigger is all you can learn to do, work on doing that safely. -ToddG
That's probably more rounds than anyone outside the factory has shot at this point. Nicely done!
I don't remember what all you've changed. Are you still running the factory extractor? Also can you refresh my memory on what you did to mount the optic plate? Red loktite or ??
Just FYI if you don't know already--Springfield has the stripped grip modules for about $40. I think the mainspring housings are $8? The MAC Tisas one may not line up with the mag well bevel of the Prodigy.
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New springs, Atlas guide rod, EGW Extractor, EGW thumb safety and ignition kit, Atlas Trigger, Dawson firing pin.
I used a ton of red loctite on the 4-40 screws and they seem to stay put now.
I ended up calling Springfield directly to order a new grip and MSH. It's $60 shipped which is a HELL of a deal for any 2011 grip. I like the texture of the Prodigy grip and I don't feel the need to enhance it in any way. I think it would be a good upgrade from the MAC.
If you're not going to learn to use the front sight properly, don't bother with it. If pointing the gun, screaming "Ahhhhh!" and cranking on the trigger is all you can learn to do, work on doing that safely. -ToddG
You'll need a different mag release when you swap to the Prodigy grip. The MAC uses the Gen 2 Staccato style that has the latch in a different place. Obviously a Prodigy catch will work. An EGW or Dawson should fit fine also.
The MAC grip has a pretty decent quality feel to it. Whatever the plastic Tisas is using seems like decent stuff. But, yeah, the traction is a bit lacking. Texture-wise I'd say it is pretty similar to the Staccato grip before that company went to the more pebbled texture.
I'm taking another swing at making sure my optics plate screws don't back out.
It should be noted that the optics plate itself hasn't come loose, but one or both of the screws. I bed the optics plate to the slide with E600 so that when the screws loosen, the plate remains in place. In the 18,000+ rounds fired, I have not perceived any movement of the optic or shift of zero. I notice that the screws are not up to their former torque when I remove the optic for battery swaps, deep cleaning, battery replacement etc.
My Previous Attempts: I bed the optics plate with E600 and I've tried VC-3, Blue, and Red loctite. I use acetone to clean the threads on all surfaces before installation and I tighten to 16 inch pounds. I used the thread locker both wet and other times let it cure before installation. I trimmed the right side screw down about a mm so that it clears the extractor channel and isn't getting tightened into the extractor.
Hypothesis: I think Cerakote on the threads is preventing the thread locker from adhering properly.
My Current Attempt: I used a 6-48 tap to chase the threads of the mounting holes in the slide. I was surprised by how much material was cut, and how much crap came out of the holes. I think there was a thick layer of Cerakote, and also I suspect that some amount of carbon and crap got up in there. There was a very noticeable difference after cutting, the process ended with shiny clean crisp threads. I cleaned the threads with acetone and let them dry before installing screws. I used blue loctite and allowed it to cure before screw installation. I torqued the screws down to 15 inch pounds.
If this doesn't work, I'm going to over bore the holes and use bigger screws. My gunsmith buddy tells me he "de-gunsmith screws" guns at every opportunity so that hardware is easier to come by. Or maybe I'll throw this gun into the river.
If you're not going to learn to use the front sight properly, don't bother with it. If pointing the gun, screaming "Ahhhhh!" and cranking on the trigger is all you can learn to do, work on doing that safely. -ToddG