For completely disassembling the modern (pre-lock, post-MIM) guns the tools needed can be simplified to a 150-3 bit, the rebound slide tool (really nice to have), the extractor rod tool, a 1/8" hex key, and a bic pen.
The lone
150-3 bit from brownells. That will fit the thumbpiece nut well enough, the 3 sideplate screws, the strain screw and the rear sight screw. Of course if price is no object the S&W bit set they sell is a good thing to have.
Unfortunately it looks like the rebound slide bit is
discontinued. The dedicated tool is
a bit overkill for $25 but I'd rather have it than not. Helpful for removing the rebound. A bic pen is sized about right to reinstall it, though I have a similarly shaped plastic punch that's been reshaped to do the same job so I don't keep destroying pens.
A 1/8" hex key (aligned to the flat sides) is sized perfectly to compress the hand torsion spring (with no room to slip by) in the MIM trigger for installing and removing the hand from the trigger.
Brownells has their own tool but I've always used the Power Custom
tool for removing and reinstalling the extractor rod. I'm unaware of a specific torque value but eventually you get it dialed in with the Mk 1 Elbow such that loctite is unnecessary.
It's been awhile since I needed to remove the bolt, or the sear from the MIM hammer. I don't remember what I used to compress the bolt spring. I thought the next time I needed to remove a MIM sear I was just going to thin/sharpen a 120-1 bit to fit that tiny recess and get under that tiny spring. If you have spare springs you can just pull the sear out and eat the cost of the spring. They're sometimes out of stock (like now, only the pre-mim bolt/sear spring is available at Brownells or Midway right now) so it's helpful to already have spares on hand. If you do then the cost of a $4 spring is a small price to pay for the frustration of dealing with something so fiddly and tiny. They're a massive pain to remove without destroying, but relatively painless to install.