Model 12 , flat latch
If someone were to try & source one is there a latch style or other indicator on which were least likely to crack?
My observations from the random cracking I personally know about and a few things that have been said about the assembly of these over at the blue forum and other places, including my late gunsmith who was S&W factory trained back in the 70's when he was the armorer for a very large police agency. It is all about how hard the barrel got torqued in at the factory, no matter what generation.
Instead of filing on the frame to get a top dead stop zero for the sights within a certain torque spec, best I can tell the factory assembly procedure for the aluminum frames (including the early alloy J frames) when these were all made was to simply keep applying torque until it stopped at that position that centered the sights and accept a wide range of pressure put on the frame. In the process they compressed those aluminum frames quite a bit and saved the time of stopping to file in order to time up the barrel position like you have no choice to on the steel frames.
If yours got torqued too tightly, it is going to crack at some point, +P ammo or standard pressure, it does not matter, it is destined for the crack in that area just around the forcing cone where the threads under so much pressure are. There are reports of cracking on pre-M12 "airweight", the aircrew M13's (even after steel cylinders), and all the generations through 12-3. Never heard much about the 12-4 and its larger frame, maybe because so few were made.
I had a pre-M12 airweight flat latch that took at least 2K rounds without a problem before I sold it to a collector who valued it more for that purpose than I did as a shooter. I have been very lucky by my count with my 12-2's and 12-3's in that none have had any sort of problems. That could change next range trip.
My simple answer would be no way to know if one is destined for a cracked frame. Nature of owning the model 12 as a shooter.
I am hoping that some day DB and BrYan convince their friends at S&W to bring back a 6 shot K frame in a +P rated alloy frame with a 2 piece barrel (which would eliminate the source of the torque problem) format. I am convinced the market is there and not just us enthusiasts.
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I bought a used Model 12 from Centerfire Systems (well, three actually...) One of them was a 2" Nickel gun that must have had something evil dripped onto it at some point because it had a couple serious pits on the frame.
Maybe some of that evil got down in the barrel threads around the forcing cone, or maybe it had just been living on borrowed time, because it cracked on me on my first range trip. Standard pressure LSW and DEWC reloads. Nothing exotic. Several of us had looked it over well when it first arrived and the crack was not there before I shot it. I don't know when it happened during shooting. I just noticed it when I was cleaning it back at my office.
No trouble with my other 12s. I carry a 2" SB one a lot when I am just bumming around on the weekends.