S&W Warranty

[SCCY Marshal]

...I doubt that it will move the group 8 inches...

Lyman 49th Ed. lists the following sight correction formula in Appendix B:

M = (D/R)*S

M = Movement in inches
D = Impact deviation in inches (8")
R = Range in inches (900 in this case)
S = Sight radius (5.266"+a rounding error on these Mitutoyo calipers, calling it 5.25" to ease math and still make the point)

M = (8/900)*5.25

M = 0.008bar * 5.25

M = 0.046bar but we'll call it 0.05" even

So, the muzzle will need to be nudged approximately five hundredths of an inch. Yes, a babbitt can easily correct your point of impact.

[willie]

The warranty guy had never heard about the big hammer method. I've seen it done by factory trained armorers.

[cosermann]

The warranty guy had never heard about the big hammer method. I've seen it done by factory trained armorers.

Makes me think of the saying, "Don't try this at home, I'm a trained professional..." Whack, whack!

[Malamute]

I believe @Outpost75 mentioned whacking the cylinder lock lug on the bottom of the barrel with the babbit bar to rotate it to bring POA and POI into convergence.

When I've messed with barrels Ive used a straight edge along both sides of the frame top strap and check how centered the end of the barrel rib is, it seems to be pretty close as a starting point when screwing a barrel in.

I have seen some Smith barrels on brand new guns that looked "bent" from the frame forward, I guess that could be helped with the whack-to-tune method also.

I had a Colt Trooper Mk-something in the 80s, it shot way off to the side, and the barrel was noticeably not indexed right. I took it to my friendly local old school gunsmith for clock adjustment, he said "I dont know how much to turn it to zero it", I said just put it in the middle and Ill try it. I centered the rear sight as a starting point after he clocked the barrel and it was right on the money (minute of oil can) @ 100 yards with some very minor sight adjustment to fine tune it.